HOPPIN' JOHN RISOTTO

Steps:

• Cook chopped bacon in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until bacon is crisp, about 6 minutes. Transfer bacon with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.
• Add 2 tablespoons butter to bacon fat in skillet and heat over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook sliced onions with 1/2 teaspoon table salt, stirring occasionally, until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup caramelized onions in a bowl and set remaining caramelized onions aside in skillet.
• While onions are caramelizing, simmer frozen black-eyed peas (if using) in 2 cups water in a 2-quart saucepan, uncovered, over moderate heat until just tender, about 15 minutes, and drain peas in a colander.
• Cook red onion and celery in 2 tablespoons butter in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in wine and boil over moderately high heat until wine is reduced by half, about 2 minutes.
• Add caramelized onions from skillet, black-eyed peas (cooked frozen ones or canned), pancetta, thyme, red pepper flakes, remaining 3/4 teaspoon table salt, and 4 cups chicken stock and briskly simmer, uncovered, over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Add remaining 4 cups chicken stock and briskly simmer, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid is absorbed and rice is just tender and creamy-looking, 15 to 20 minutes. Add remaining 8 tablespoons butter (1 stick) and lemon juice, stirring until butter is incorporated.
• Divide risotto among 8 shallow bowls or dinner plates and sprinkle with bacon. If serving with verbena-brined pork chops (recipe precedes), top with chops. Sprinkle with coarse black pepper and sea salt, then top each serving with about 1 tablespoon reserved caramelized onion and sprinkle with chopped parsley.