SUMMER TOMATO PASTA

Steps:

• Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch pieces or so, and place, with all their juices, in a large bowl. (Big enough to fit everything in the recipe, plus with lots of room to stir.) Season them generously with salt and pepper, and a millionaire's splash or two of the nicest olive oil you have. Stir together, and give it a taste. If everything is sweet and lovely but could use just a little more brightness, splash in a little vinegar, too. Bring a gallon of water to a boil, and add enough salt so that it tastes almost like the sea. Add the pasta and stir. While the pasta is cooking, lay the greens on top of the tomatoes, and then the onion or shallot slices. Try to arrange them so that they're in one even layer, so that when you pile the pasta on, the heat will take the raw edge off the onion, and gently wilt the greens underneath. When the pasta is cooked to a perfect al dente, drain it and dump it in the bowl. Now wait! Don't touch it for two minutes. While you're waiting, you can grate on the cheese, or, shave it on in long, thin ribbons. After two minutes, get in there and give it all a serious stir; the starch from the pasta actually helps to emulsify the oil into the tomato juices, creating a sauce. Taste it, adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, olive oil, or vinegar, and serve right away.