JASPER'S NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER

Steps:

• Heat a 4- to 6-quart heavy-bottomed pot over low heat, and add salt pork. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium and cook until salt pork is a crisp golden brown. Remove from pot; set aside.
• Add butter, onions, garlic, celery, thyme, and bay leaves. Saute, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until onions are softened but not browned, about 10 minutes.
• Add potatoes and strained clam broth. The broth should just barely cover the potatoes; if it doesn't, add enough water to cover them. Increase the heat, and bring to a boil. Cover, and cook potatoes vigorously until they are soft on the outside but still firm in the center, about 10 minutes. If the broth hasn't thickened lightly, smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot, and cook 1 to 2 minutes more to release the starch.
• Remove pot from the heat, and stir in diced clams and cream. Season to taste. If you are not serving the chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover after it has completely chilled. Otherwise, let it sit at room temperature for up to 1 hour, allowing the flavors to meld.
• When ready to serve, reheat the chowder over low heat; don't let it boil. Ladle into cups or bowls, making sure that clams, potatoes, and onions are evenly divided. Sprinkle with parsley, chives, and reserved salt-pork cracklings.